Sweater "Azalea"

Sewing instructions


Right/outer fabric side
Left/inner fabric side
Straight stitch
Zick-zack stitch
Overlock/serger stitch (Replace with zick-zack stitch if not available)

Step 1: Cutting

Azalea is suitable for medium-thick knitted fabrics. Sweat, fleece or walk are also possible.

Please cut the pieces as follows:

A – back 1 x on fold
B – front 1 x on fold
C – sleave 2 x
D – turtleneck 1 x on fold
E – cuffs (optional) 2 x if included in pattern

Knitted fabrics often tend to fray a lot. After cutting, all parts should therefore be serged all around, preferably with an overlock. This step can be omitted with cooked wool.

Step 2: Prepare turtleneck

Fold the turtleneck lengthways right sides together and sew along the long edge with a straight stitch.

Then press the seam allowance open and turn the collar in half. The collar is then doubled up and the seam allowance disappears inside.

Step 3: Prepare cuffs (optional)

Fold the cuffs with the short side right sides together and sew along the short side with a straight stitch.

Then press the seam allowance open and fold the cuff in half. The cuff is then double and the seam allowance disappears inside.

Step 4: Bust dart (optional)

Skip this step if your pattern doesn't include a bust dart.

Fold the bust darts so that the right side of the fabric is inside. To do this, place the two notches on the side of the dart on top of each other. You can draw a guide from these notches to the chest point (e.g. with tailor's chalk). Then sew this line from the outside in with a normal straight stitch. The seam is not backstitched at the bust point. Instead, sew a few stitches past the bust point and then knot the yarn. You can use a needle to push the knot very close to the fabric. Then iron the bust darts down.

Step 5: Close shoulder seams

Sew the back and front pieces together at the shoulders.

Step 6: Set in sleeves

When inserting the sleeves, note that they are not symmetrical. The back part is a bit wider, that's the one with the double notch in the seam allowance.

Place the front and back parts in front of you with the right side up. Place the sleeve right side down on top. The top middle notch meets the shoulder seam. Then bring the outer corners of the armhole and sleeve and the notches together. Make sure that the double notches on the sleeve meet the double notches in the armhole.

Distribute the rest of the sleeve evenly and pin everything securely. The sleeve is a little wider than the armhole, that's correct. Just divide the width evenly.

Use an elastic stitch (overlock or zigzag) to sew. The sleeve lies down on the needle plate. Just sew slowly and repeatedly stroke out the creases. Even if the temptation is great, try not to stretch the fabric too much. You will see that it works wonderfully.

Step 7: Close side seams of sleave and top

With both sleeves in place, the side seams can be closed in one go from the wrist to the lower end of the top. The seam ends in  about one cm behind the beginning of the facing.

Attention! The back part is five cm longer than the front part. The front and back parts meet where the facing begins, not at the hem.

Step 8: Insert sleeve cuffs (optional) or sew sleeve hem

Turn the sleeve inside out. Tuck the folded cuffs into the sleeve so that the cuffs and sleeves are right sides together.

Pin the cuff evenly, you can easily stretch it.

Sew the cuffs and sleeves together all around with an overlock or zigzag stitch.

Tip: You can run the foot of the sewing machine along the inside of the cuff. Then the cuff does not have to fit over the extension table.

Without cuffs

If you are sewing the version without cuffs, fold the hem two cm inwards and sew it on by hand.

Step 9: Sew corners in the hem

The facings have a sloping edge at the bottom. Fold the receipts right sides together along this edge and sew along the edge. Then turn the corners outwards and press the seamallowance nice and flat.

Step 10: Sew the hem

Fold the facings inwards so that a straight edge is created at the slit. The hem is turned inwards two cm, pinned and ideally sewn on by hand.